The search for the fountain of youth has fascinated humans throughout history. From scientifical to mythical approaches, how and to delay the ageing process has long been a topic of interest, and that's a multi-billion dollar industry today.
While anti-ageing has long been the focus of the health industry, the possibility of actually ageing backwards has been a topic that's garnered much interest in recent years. Biohacking projects such as Bryan Johnson's Blueprint are gaining media attention and seemingly making headways.
In the coming weeks, we will be looking at various medical and scientific advances that are working to halt time and, in some instances, reverse the signs of ageing. From tapping into the power of DNA testing to whether supplements can provide optimal sustenance, we seek to uncover how the scientific community is pursuing this field.
In this first part of the series, we look at how the beauty industry has popularised science-driven skincare treatments that claim to scale back the effects of the sun, pollutants and hormonal changes as part of the natural ageing process.
The skin undergoes changes that result in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles as we age. Alongside the causes mentioned earlier, lifestyle choices such as diet, excessive drinking, smoking and a lack of exercise can all contribute to how we age.
Regardless of how quickly or slowly we age, a decrease in the production of collagen and elastin, which are proteins responsible for maintaining the skin's structure and elasticity, is at the core of declining skin quality. Additionally, a decrease in skin cell turnover as the body becomes less effective eat regeneration with age, and the accumulation of oxidative stress can also contribute to the visible signs of ageing.
Topical creams and serums containing retinoids, antioxidants, and peptides can help stimulate collagen production, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and improve skin texture and tone. More advanced procedures, such as laser resurfacing and light therapy, can also effectively reverse the signs of ageing skin. These treatments can help improve the appearance of deep wrinkles and restore volume and contour to the face. They are beneficial as they penetrate deeper into the skin and trigger natural rejuvenation and collagen production.
Intense pulsed light therapy (IPL) is a safe, non-invasive treatment that can potentially target and reverse some signs of ageing skin. Rapid, high-intensity pulses of light emitted from the medical-grade machine can stimulate collagen production, reduce the appearance of scars and spots and shrink pore size. But does the treatment minimise these signs of ageing, or can it give ageing skin a bounce back to its younger self?
To find out, we headed to EstheClinic in Hong Kong's Sai Ying Pun to explore first-hand what IPL can do to improve an ageing complexion.
The treatment
EstheClinic's Glow treatment is a quick, one-hour session that combines IPL with LED phototherapy to target spots caused by hormonal changes and sun exposure, plus stimulate collagen for a more plump, youthful look.
At the beginning of each treatment, a consultant evaluates the patient's skin condition to determine whether the treatment is suitable. Generally, IPL works with most skin types, but those who are pregnant, on prescription medication or have naturally darker skin tones are advised against the treatment. The pulses from the IPL machine may damage darker skin due to higher melanin; in severe cases, treatment can cause blisters and discolouration.
LED therapy emits low-level light energy to stimulate collagen production, giving the skin a natural-looking boost in elasticity, texture and overall appearance.
Combining the two treatments can deliver more visible and better results; both treatments are painless and are popular 'at lunch-time' as they result in minimal redness and require zero downtime.
Those who undergo the treatment can expect improved blood circulation and cell metabolism rate, leading to more efficient skin regeneration and repair. The treatment is also recommended for those with acne-prone skin, as the IPL and LED can kill bacteria, regulate sebum production and keep inflammation at bay.
The process
Upon putting a thick layer of gel formulated especially to work with IPL machines, the therapist secures goggles around the eyes for protection. While the treatment is pain-free, the bright light from the device is. The therapist worked on one side of the face than the other, and the entire process was a bit noisy and definitely very bright as the applicator moved closer towards the eyes. But as promised, this first part of the treatment, which took around 20 minutes, went by like a breeze with no pain at all. There was little sensation besides the pressure from the therapist as she applied the device to the face.
After the IPL session, the therapist stimulated the skin with a derma roller, a rolling-pin-like device with tiny needles that stimulate the skin, making it more receptive to any products and treatments applied.
The LED facial was pain-free, as promised. A hood-like device lined with LED bulbs is placed above the face, and eyes are covered to mute the colours. The treatment began with red and blue, targeting inflammation and attack bacteria, and lasted about 20 minutes.
And just like that, the treatment came to an end.
Post-treatment
As the therapist assured me at the beginning of the treatment, patients will not experience any downtime after undergoing IPL and LED facials. My face looked just a tad red in some areas, lightly just from the pressure of the IPL device and the light derma rolling, and overall the skin looked immediately brighter.
However, the therapists noted that areas with heavy pigmentation might grow more concentrated the next day before it lightens and the colour disperses. It'll take several days for the results to fully come into effect, which is typical for most medical-spa treatments.
One week post-treatment
Several days into the treatment, my skin looked brighter and felt plumper to the touch. I did notice some improvement in the dark spots, which is not to say that any damage caused by sun exposure was reversed.
For best results, the therapist suggests repeated treatments, once a week the first month, then once every two weeks as maintenance.
Yet, with just the initial treatment, the results are definitely visible.
As to whether this means reverse ageing for the skin? The jury is still out; while it can mitigate damages caused by exposure or acne, it's not that tap of a magic wand that will instantly give you the complexion of a teenager.
Claims of boosted collagen production will likely be more evident with more treatments. However, it opens the door to the possibilities of non-invasive beauty advances that is a step towards delaying the effects of ageing.
Also see: Benefits of at-home versus professional infrared light treatments
